Canada's Charming Capital City

A trip to Ottawa is a great way to explore Canada's roots, culinary delights and its walkable streets.

There’s much to discover when visiting our “Neighbor to the North” and, although it’s not like going overseas, a trip to a Canadian city can often feel like a trip abroad. Certainly, both our nations are closely linked. But, the bilingual nature and distinctly Canadian culture offers a different and positive experience. While Americans do require a valid passport to enter the country, we don’t need a visa for stays less than six months. And, the travel time is much shorter compared with a transatlantic trip, making a visit to Canada an ideal getaway. I discovered all this for myself several years ago during a visit to Ottawa when I fell under the spell of Canada’s charming capital city.

A savory snack mix with items like rye bagel chips and pretzel twists were on hand in United First.

My trip began at the Baltimore Washington International Airport (BWI) with a mid-morning flight on United Airlines to Chicago O’Hare (ORD). I was flying aboard a single-aisle Airbus A320 aircraft and there were 12 seats in First Class in a 2x2 configuration across three rows. As usual, I was seated in seat 2B on the port side of the plane and we were fortunate in receiving a pre-departure beverage service during the boarding process. The flight took off on time and since it was just over 600 miles to Chicago, a selection snacks were offered, along with complimentary alcoholic beverages. We landed shortly after Noon local time and pulled into a gate on the E Concourse in Terminal 2. 

The single seats on the port side of the Embrear E-175 offer more privacy with window views as well.

As I had a two-hour layover, I headed over to the United Club located across from Gate F9 on the next concourse. This lounge was modern and spacious and I had no trouble finding an empty seat. The available food and drink options were sufficient for a basic airport lounge experience, although I did venture out in order to grab a more substantial bite for lunch. My next flight to Ottawa was delayed for about 30 minutes while we waited for the assigned flight crew to arrive. We finally traveled on a Republic Airways  Embraer E175 operating as United Express. There were 12 seats in the forward cabin in a 1x2 layout, with four single seats on the port side and four double seats across the aisle. Luckily, I was able to snag Seat 2A and enjoyed the views from this window seat without worrying about climbing over anyone to use the facilities. We made up a good bit of time and landed at the Ottawa International Airport (YOW) close to 5:30 in the afternoon. Transiting through Canadian Customs was simple and speedy and  before too long, I was in a taxi heading to my hotel.

The stunning and storied Fairmont Château Laurier Hotel, a National Historic Site, as seen from above.

In about 20 minutes we pulled up to what looked like something out of a storybook - a soaring castle known as the Fairmont Château Laurier Hotel. This property was built in 1912 and has played host to royalty, celebrities and titans of industry. The hotel has a historic and opulent feel, with a stunning art deco design. There’s even a famous portrait of former British Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill in the lobby. From its prime location, with the ByWard Market on one side and the Rideau Canal locks on the other, Ottawa's “castle” is 11 stories high and features 426 rooms and suites. My 400 square-foot Deluxe King Room was on the seventh floor. It had a lovely view and featured a large-screen TV, a nice sitting area and writing desk and La Labo bath amenities. What it didn’t have was an in-room safe, which was disappointing and rather surprising. But, the Fairmont did have three restaurants and bars: Wilfrid's for brunch (now closed) , Zoe's was the lobby bar offering cocktails and high tea, and La Terrasse, an elegant restaurant serving seasonally inspired menus. It was a pleasure to stay at the Fairmont, which proved to be an excellent choice and a top-notch five-star property.

The Parliament Senate Chamber features a vaulted ceiling and is lavishly decorated with symbolic art.

Since the Fairmont was loaded across the street from Parliament Hill, it was easy for me to take in the Parliament Buildings, one of the most popular tourist attractions in Ottawa. Their stunning architecture reflects the Gothic Revival style and features rugged stone masonry, pointed arches and intricate details, giving them remarkable visual appeal. The style was chosen in the Nineteenth Century to represent Canada’s connection to European parliamentary tradition, in contrast to the Neoclassical style used for so many government buildings in the US. The 300-foot tall bell and clock tower is the centerpiece of the complex and one of Canada's most recognizable symbols. It was built to commemorate the Canadians who perished during the First World War. As the home of Canada's Federal Government, Parliament Hill is the epicenter of Canadian politics and a powerful symbol of the country's democratic values. The buildings and grounds were designated a National Historic Site in 1976, formally recognizing their importance as a national symbol and gathering place for celebrations as well as protests. As a history buff, I was fascinated to tour the Centre Block as well as the House of Commons at West Block and the Senate of Canada Building.

The Rideau Canal runs right through the heart of downtown Ottawa and attracts visitors year round.

Once again, the location of the Fairmont Hotel proved to be advantageous as it was also situated right next to the Rideau Canal, the second most popular attraction in the capital. It was originally built for military purposes following the War of 1812, with defensive structures like blockhouses still visible. The canal is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is considered a masterpiece of Nineteenth Century engineering, especially its system of locks. What makes this canal so amazing are the unique recreational opportunities it offers. It’s known in winter as the Rideau Canal Skateway, the world’s largest skating rink attracting thousands of visitors on a daily basis. In the warmer months, it’s used for boating, cruising and paddle boarding. I particularly liked the surrounding pathways that seemed to be quite popular for walkers, runners and cyclists. 

This G.IV German-built biplane was captured and later shipped to Canada as a war trophy in 1919.

Also located on the canal some fifteen minutes to the northeast was the Canada Aviation and Space Museum. It houses a collection of over 130 aircraft and artifacts from civil, commercial and military service, all of which focus on Canadian contributions to aviation and space exploration, During my visit, I had an opportunity to see the first airplane flown in Canada, the Silver Dart. It’s a reproduction built by the Royal Canadian Air Force to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the first flight in 1909 in Baddeck, Nova Scotia. Also on display was Canada’s first bush plane, the Curtis HS-2L, which pioneered many Canadian aviation firsts, including forest patrols, aerial timber surveys and regular airmail service. A piece of the Avro Arrow Supersonic Jet Interceptor Aircraft was in another exhibit. That project was a significant technological achievement for Canada, but was controversially cancelled in 1959, leading to the unfortunate destruction of most of the aircraft prototypes and tooling. Finally, the museum also had a prototype of the De Haviland Beaver, a rugged, single-engine, piston-powered aircraft designed by De Haviland Canada as an all-purpose bush plane for use in remote areas. Needless to say, as an avowed AvGeek, I was like a kid in a candy store and thoroughly enjoyed my time spent in this fascinating museum.

Ottawa struck a unique balance by offering the amenities of a big city with a more relaxed, small-town feel and is one city that I would happily return to if given the opportunity.

Until next time…safe travels.