To Helsinki - Pearl of the Baltic

Helsinki embodies the best of Scandinavia with its balance of urban development and green space.

When I received news some years ago that a business trip to Helsinki was in the cards for me, I was justifiably anxious to begin my travels. Personally, the nations and cities of Scandinavia always held great allure. Their enormous popularity may be attributed to the region’s high quality of life, social and economic stability, stunning natural landscapes, and a reputation for safety and efficient governance. Factors like excellent healthcare and education systems, high levels of trust and low corruption, all contribute to a successful and contented society that attracts both expatriates and tourists. Finland’s capital of Helsinki is a case in point. Its popularity stems from a unique blend of nature and modern urbanism, its world-renowned design and architecture, and its vibrant culture, including innovative cuisine and lively festivals. Visitors are drawn to the city's abundant green spaces and seaside location as well as the overall quality of life.

The lounge was small with an outdated design and a fairly disappointing selection of food and drinks.

My journey began with a short evening flight from the Baltimore Washington International Airport (BWI) to New York’s JFK Airport on American Airlines. Since I had booked a ticket to Helsinki on Finnair, I didn’t have to change terminals as both carriers operate from Terminal 8. Finnair did not have its own dedicated lounge at the airport as the two airlines were OneWorld partners and shared facilities. Instead, Business Class passengers were welcomed at the American Airlines Admirals Club on Concourse C across from Gate 42. That lounge offered a comfortable space with showers, a cocktail bar and a buffet of hot and cold food options. It also featured large windows offering views of the runways and gates, although it was dark at the time of my visit. Unfortunately, the club offered nothing really special to write home about, but did provide a comfortable space in which to await the departure of my transatlantic flight.

Finnair's long-haul Business Class catering focuses on Nordic flavors with sleek Litalla tableware.

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Shortly after 11:00 PM, boarding began and I was directed to the single window seat 2A on the port side of the aircraft. Finnair was flying an Airbus A330-300 on the route that night with a total of 28 seats in the forward cabin in a 1x2x1 configuration across seven rows. Amenity kits by Marimekko were placed on each seat and although minimal, mine had all the toiletries necessary for an overnight flight. Joseph Perrier's Cuvée Royale Champagne was served in Littala Glassware as a pre-departure beverage and then dinner menus were distributed. About 30 minutes after takeoff, the cabin mood lighting was switched on and the meal service began. Cocktails were offered while our table trays were set with linen, flatware and glasses. I was traveling in October and noticed that Finnair seemed to go all out with pumpkin on the menu that night. I selected the Pumpkin Purée of Roasted Pumpkin, Pickled Pumpkin and Feta Cheese with Pumpkin Seed Oil as a starter. For the main course, I chose the Beef with Porcini Mushroom Risotto, Pumpkin Broccoli, Corn and Black Garlic Sauce. They were both very good as was the Chåteau Bournac  Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux and the Blueberry Cake I had for dessert. 

The Finnair Business Class seats are like being on a couch that enables lie-flat sleep without reclining.

I really liked these Business Class seats. There were ample storage compartments and a wireless charging pad, The center seats included a privacy divider, and bulkhead seats offered extra legroom, although as a solo passenger, I preferred the window seat for enhanced privacy. The Finnair Airbus A330-300 featured the Collins Aerospace AirLounge Business Class Seat. These seats were characterized by a fixed, contoured shell design that didn’t recline, but transformed into a fully flat bed. The seats went flat, not by reclining, but by raising the seat’s leg rest and extending a connecting panel into the deep footwell, creating a seamless lie-flat surface. The fixed, hardshell seat back stayed upright, transforming the seat into a private pod and offering me generous living space for a good night’s sleep. Right before landing, flight attendants served breakfast. In addition to Yogurt, Muesli, Fresh Fruit, and Sliced Deli Meats and Cheeses, they offered a hot meal of Scrambled Eggs Sausage, Hash Browns as well as Coffee, Tea and Juices. Surprisingly, I ate most of it as I was hungry after a long sleep and thought it was a great start to the day before my arrival in Finland. We touched down around two in the afternoon. 

Rooms at Hotel Kämp featured modern comforts in addition to thoughtful details like down duvets.

Helsinki-Vantaa (HEL) is the country’s main international airport, serving both domestic and international locales. It wasn’t too busy at that time of day and I breezed through Finnish Customs and Immigration formalities in short order. Before too long, I was in a taxi heading to the Hotel Kämp some 12 miles away. Situated on the Esplanade, the hotel was constructed in 1887 and is a member of both Historic Hotels Worldwide and Leading Hotels of the World. As Finland's first grand hotel, it has been an integral part of Finnish cultural history for over 130 years. It was famously a meeting place for artists and intellectuals in the early Twentieth Century and housed a secret underground movement during the Czarist era. The hotel provides a five-star experience that blends 19th-century grandeur with modern amenities. Rooms and suites are elegantly furnished and feature luxurious marble bathrooms. My accommodations were elegant and very comfortable and contributed to a wonderful two-day stay in the Finnish capital. 

The Neoclassical Helsinki Cathedral features a majestic white facade and tall green central dome.

I took a walking tour of the city center in order to gain some context of the city's history, Helsinki has a long and interesting history, as the city was founded in 1550 by Swedish King Gustav I, at a time when Finland was part of Sweden. The city (and all of present-day Finland) was then conquered by the Russians in 1808, and remained under their control until the country gained its independence in 1917. The tour took me to the Helsinki Cathedral, which sits on Senate Square in the city center. This is the Finnish Evangelical Lutheran Cathedral and it's known for its grand green dome and massive granite staircase. The cathedral was built between 1830 and 1852 as a tribute to Tsar Nicholas I of Russia and has since become a symbol of Helsinki. This must-see destination features prominently in photos and guidebooks, solidifying its status as one of Finland's most famous buildings. 

Helsinki's imposing Suomenlinna Sea Fortress offers visitors a bit of history, nature, and culture.

At the suggestion of the hotel concierge, I also took a short ferry ride from Helsinki’s Market Square after the walking tour had finished. My destination was the Suomenlinna Sea Fortress. This historic UNESCO World Heritage site is composed of a series of islands that form a sea fortress built in the Eighteenth Century by Sweden to defend against Russia. Ironically, in 1808, Sweden surrendered the fortress to Russia, and it was integrated into the Russian Naval Fortress of Peter the Great to protect St. Petersburg. After Finland declared its independence in 1917, the fortress was taken over by the new Finnish government and renamed Suomenlinna, meaning "Castle of Finland.” Today, it’s a popular tourist destination known for its well-preserved fortifications, museums, natural beauty, tunnels, and cafes. I took a stroll along the cliffs, enjoying beautiful views of the sea. I was also fortunate in discovering charming artist studios and cozy cafés, along with colorful wooden houses occupied by the small community that resides on the islands.

Beyond physical well-being, the sauna represents an integral and very cherished part of Finnish life.  

What I did make time for was a Finnish sauna experience. In a Finnish sauna, löyly refers to the steam generated when water is ladled onto hot stones, creating an atmosphere of warmth and humidity. It's a fundamental and essential part of a traditional Finnish sauna. The combination of heat and humidity is believed to provide relaxation, stimulate circulation, and aid in detoxification. A crucial part of the experience is alternating between the heat of the sauna with a cool shower.  While I didn’t partake, it’s also  common to use a bundle of birch twigs to gently slap and brush the body, a practice that is said to stimulate blood circulation and leave the skin soft. Also, most Finns typically go to the sauna in the nude even with strangers, but all those who joined me in the hotel sauna wore a swimsuit or used a towel to cover up.

My days in Helsinki soon came to an end, but I departed with a greater appreciation for this charming Finnish seaside city and its unique national lifestyle.

Until next time…safe travels.